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Line 1273-4 - Commentary Note (CN) More Information

Notes for lines 1018-2022 ed. Eric Rasmussen
For explanation of sigla, such as jen, see the editions bib.
1273-4 Guyl. Happy, in that we are not {euer} <ouer->happy on For|tunes {lap} <Cap>, 
1865 hal
hal
1273-4 Fortunes lap] Halliwell (ed. 1865): “"The flat cap," observes Mr. Fairhohlt, ’became very prevalent during the reign of Henry VII., and was in constant use by the middle classes during the early part of the seventeenth century. The cut copied from tapestry of Henry the seventh’s era, shews the flaps then constantly appended to it, turned up and secured by a strap and button. It is obvious that such a button might be of the most costly material, of enriched by jewels, according to the wealth of the weare."
1882 elze
elze : hal, dyce, Fairhohlt
1273-4 Fortunes lap] Elze (ed. 1882): “In Mr Halliwell-Phillipps’ folio edition this passage has been illustrated with a cut copied from tapestry of the time of Henry VII and showing a cap the flaps of which are turned up and secured by a strap and button. ‘It is obvious’, observes Mr Halliwell-Phillipps, ‘that such a button might be of the most costly material, according to the wealth of the wearer.’ This, however, is not to the point, as our poet does not introduce the button as the most costly, but as the uppermost part of the cap, in contrast to the soles as the nethermost part of dress. In Mr Halliwell-Phillipps’ illustration the button of the cap is, and from its destination must be, placed at the side, and it seems, therefore, most unlikely that the poet should have alluded to this kind of cap. The prototype of ‘Fortune’s cap’ may rather be recognised in the flat round cap worn by citizens in the XV. and XVI. centuries. The most eloquent praise of this citizens’ cap, in contradistinction to the square cap of the scholar on the one hand and the newfangled long hat on the other, is sung by Candido in Dekker’s Honest Whore, Part II, I, 3 (Middleton, ed. Dyce, III, 147). ‘The citizens of London’, remarks Dyce on Part I, III, I of the same play (Middleton, III, 58), ‘both masters and journeymen, continued to wear flat round caps long after they had ceased to be fashionable, and were hence in derision termed flat-caps [or simply caps; see Part II of The Honest Whore, passim].’ Although Dyce does not say that this round cap was crowned by a button at the top, yet this seems so much the more likely as the scholars’ cap is distinguished by the same ornament; perhaps both of them resembled in this respect the well-known Tam-o’-Shanter of the Scotch, to which the poet seems to allude in a later passage of our play, viz. in the line: A very riband in the cap of youth (§ 192). There is indeed in Mr Halliwell-Phillipps’ folio edition another illustration of a cap decorated with ribbon which has been copied by Mr Fairholt from a German woodcut dated 1583. ‘The wealthier classes’, adds Mr Fairholt, ‘frequently decorated the simple flat cap with aiguillettes, strings of pearl, jewels, and bows of silken ribbon. The latter being a comparatively cheap decoration was often used in the caps of young persons.’ All this is very true, but the ribbon in Mr Fairholt’s cut is twined round the cap in the form of a wreath and it may well be asked, if Shakespeare had not in his mind’s eye a cap with a flowing ribbon — just like the Tam-o’-Shanter, provided that this national Scotch cap should not be the invention of a later day. See Jahrbuch der Deutschen Shakespeare-Gesellschaft, XVI, 245 seq.”
1890 irv
irv : elze, hal, dyce
1273-4 Fortunes lap] Symons (in Irving & Marshall ed. 1890): “Qq. print lap, a misprint for Cap, as the Ff. spell it, with an initial capital. Elze, pp. 156, 157, has an interesting note on this allusion. ‘In Mr. Halliwell-Phillipps’ Folio edition,’ he says,’ this passage has been illustrated with a cut copied from tapestry of the time of Henry VII., and showing a cap the flaps of which are turned up and secured by a strap and a button. ‘It is obvious,’ observes Mr. Halliwell-Phillipps, ‘that such a button might be of the most costly material, according to the wealth of the wearer.’ This, however, is not to the point, as out poet does not introduce the button as the most costly, but as the uppermost part of the cap, in contrast to the soles as the nethermost part of dress. In Mr. Halliwell-Phillipps’ illustration the button of the cap is, and from its destination must be, placed at the side, and it seems therefore, most unlikely that the poet should have been alluded to this kind of cap. The prototype of ‘Fortune’s cap’ may rather be recognized in the flat round cap worn by citizens in the XV. And XVI. centuries. The most eloquent praise of this citizens’ cap, in contradistinction to the square cap of the scholar on the one hand and the new fangled long hat on the other, is sung by Candido in Dekker’s Honest Whore, Part II. I. 3 (Middleton, ed. Dyce, ii. 147). ‘The citizens of London,’ remarks Dyce on Part I. Iii. 1 of the same play (Middleton, iii. 58), ‘both masters and journeymen, continued to wear flat round caps long after they ceased to be fashionable, and were hence in derision termed flat-caps [or simply caps; see Part II. Of the Honest Whore, passim].’ Although Dyce does not say that this round cap was crowned by a button at the top, yet this seems so much the more likely as the scholar’s cap is distinguished by the same ornament; perhaps both of them resembled in this respect the well-known Tam-o’-Shanter of the Scotch.’
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